Nestled along the banks of the Alberche River and surrounded by pine groves and fertile plains, Escalona is one of the most striking and historic villages in the province of Toledo. With its imposing medieval castle, timeworn streets full of legends, and a fascinating link to Juana la Beltraneja, Escalona offers an unforgettable escape for lovers of history, literature, and rural tourism.

A Noble Past: The History of Escalona

While Escalona’s origins date back to Roman times, it truly rose to prominence during the Middle Ages. In the 12th century, King Alfonso VII ordered the town to be repopulated and fortified as a strategic stronghold on the frontier between Christian and Muslim territories.

The town reached its golden age in the 14th and 15th centuries, becoming the heart of the powerful House of Pacheco, one of the most influential noble families in Castile. Under their rule, Escalona flourished economically, culturally, and militarily.

Juana la Beltraneja and Escalona: The Princess and Her Stronghold

Escalona is closely tied to one of the most tragic and controversial figures in Spanish history: Juana la Beltraneja. The disputed daughter of King Henry IV of Castile, Juana was named heir to the throne. But when her legitimacy was questioned, a civil war broke out between her supporters and those of Isabella the Catholic, who would eventually become Queen of Castile.

Don Juan Pacheco, Marquis of Villena

Juana's greatest protector was her uncle, Don Juan Pacheco, the first Marquis of Villena and Lord of Escalona. A skilled politician and strategist, Pacheco turned the Castle of Escalona into a political and military hub for Juana’s cause.

For a time, Juana lived in Escalona under his protection, and from here, alliances were forged with Portugal and other noble houses to support her claim to the throne.

Strolling through the town’s historic core or around the castle ruins, it’s easy to imagine those turbulent times of intrigue, shifting loyalties, and royal ambitions.

What to See in Escalona: History Comes Alive

Castle-Palace of Escalona

The undisputed symbol of the town, this magnificent fortress was originally built on the foundations of a former Muslim stronghold. Transformed in the late Middle Ages by the Pacheco family, it combined defensive structures with Gothic-Mudéjar palatial elements.

While the interior is not fully open to the public, the castle’s commanding presence overlooking the Alberche River remains breathtaking. The surrounding area is perfect for a scenic walk, especially at sunset.

Town Walls and San Miguel Gate

Escalona preserves part of its original medieval defensive walls, including the well-preserved San Miguel Gate, once the main entrance to the town. These structures remind visitors of the town’s strategic importance during the Reconquista and the War of Castilian Succession.

Convent of the Conceptionist Nuns

Founded in the 16th century and still active today, this convent features a beautiful Renaissance church. The cloistered nuns are renowned for their handmade pastries, including almond cookies and yemas (egg yolk sweets), which make perfect souvenirs.

Church of San Miguel

A mix of Romanesque origins with later Gothic and Renaissance renovations, the church boasts a striking Baroque main altarpiece and noble family chapels that speak to the village’s illustrious past.

Escalona’s Festivities: Tradition and Community Spirit

Patron Saint Festivities (Early September)

The town’s main celebrations honor Christ of the True Cross with religious processions, live music, bull runs, fireworks, and festive gatherings in the main square. It’s a lively and heartfelt event that draws visitors from across the region.

Holy Week

Escalona’s Semana Santa is a time of solemn processions, with locally cherished religious images carried through the narrow cobbled streets, reflecting the town’s deep-rooted spiritual traditions.

Summer Medieval Fair

During summer, the area around the castle transforms into a living medieval village, complete with artisan stalls, falconry exhibitions, historical reenactments, and open-air performances. It’s an immersive way to experience the 15th century and learn about Juana la Beltraneja’s story in a festive setting.

Escalona’s Cuisine: Flavors of the Land

Escalona’s gastronomy blends the robust culinary traditions of Toledo and La Mancha, featuring local products and recipes passed down through generations.

Signature Dishes in Escalona

• Gachas and migas: Traditional shepherd’s dishes made with flour or breadcrumbs, flavored with garlic and pork.
• Rabbit with garlic: Tender pieces of rabbit stewed with herbs and garlic—rustic and flavorful.
• Lamb stew: A rich, slow-cooked dish often served at festivals and family gatherings.

Local Sweets in Escalona

• Yemas (egg yolk sweets): Delicately prepared by the convent nuns, soft and sweet.
• Anise-flavored donuts: Popular during Easter and festive holidays.

Wines and Olive Oil

The surrounding countryside is dotted with small vineyards and olive groves, producing excellent wines with D.O. Méntrida and high-quality extra virgin olive oils, perfect for pairing with local dishes.

Getting to Escalona: Tips for Travelers

• From Madrid: Just 75 km (about a 1-hour drive) via the A-5 toward Talavera, then CM-5005.
• No train station in town, but the closest is in Torrijos, 20 km away.
• Best time to visit: Spring and autumn, when the weather is ideal and many festivals take place.

Travel Tips

• Wear comfortable shoes for exploring the historic center.
• Check for guided tours of the castle during special events or the Medieval Fair.
• Don’t leave without tasting some pastries from the convent or local bakeries.

Escalona—Where Castles Whisper of Queens That Might Have Been

Escalona is much more than a picturesque village—it’s a place where the drama of history still lingers in the stones of its castle and the pages of Spain’s past. Here, Juana la Beltraneja, a princess denied her throne, once took refuge behind fortified walls, while nobles plotted alliances and kingdoms hung in the balance.

Whether you’re drawn by the historical intrigue, the majestic architecture, or the warmth of a quiet village nestled in nature, Escalona is a destination that leaves a lasting impression.

So if you’re looking for a unique getaway near Madrid—steeped in history, full of local flavor, and wrapped in timeless charm—Escalona awaits you.